Four days into a guided walking trip with Shakti Himalaya, I follow my guide, Rohan Dhar, up a steep ridgeline above Prana Lodge, the company’s seven-suite retreat in India’s Uttarakhand region of the ...

There was a small crunch as gravel dug under my fingernails. I breathed through the motion—inhale, stretch upwards, exhale, locate another handhold—my toes finding a narrow ledge strong enough to hold ...